hello everybody and welcome to another hobby cheating video today we're back to the scaven and we're going to be talking all about doing copper and bronze and weathering on it it's going to be a great time let's get into it the strict technomancer that is Vincy V let us get to the technique and learn viny so I'm still plugging away on my scaven Army uh John nenus may have forgotten about it he's stuck in one big piece trying to win a Golden demon and I plan to use his Ness to my advantage so today I'm working on my jazal a pretty important part of any scaven army and they have these big tanks backpacks on them so that's going to require some copper or bronze or whatever we want to talk about and I've got a new method of doing it for these guys I do really like and I like the effect of so I'm going to take you through the process today and how to create fast but still convincing and credible uh copper or bronze it'll work kind of for either and then how to weather it up and make it look cool let's head over to the desk let's get painting all right we're going to start with the specific mix here so the mix I'm going to use is actually Vallejo metal color silver so just this is the bright but sort of blank silver but you could use any of the bright Vallejo metal colors or frankly any bright silver paint it's just this happens to work the best since it's quite metallic and thin and I'm going to actually mix in toos bronze now this is a speed paint 2.0 um and I really like the speed paint metallics I had reviewed them previously on the channel and I'm going to mix in uh basically uh four or five drops of the bronze to one drop of the silver now why well the silver is going to lighten it up some but it'll also increase some of the opacity uh the um the speed paints are really good on their own and honestly if you were working with something heavily zenth you could probably just use it straight but as I tend to work over something either very lightly zenth or just with his army I need to make it up the opacity hence we're adding in the silver um so just start with a simple base coat of that over the whole surface no big deal um took me two coats in some areas to get it really fully opaque but it was still pretty fast not too much of problem once that was good it's time to get to our shading now shading your bronze is really important um you want to you know with all medals we have to sort of take non- metallic typ fooing and we have to place some Shadows so I begin with some warm bronze or sorry warm Brown up from Pro acry and I just start carefully glazing it into all of the areas I want so this is the it's a big cylinder here we're working on so I pick basically the two sides off of the Highlight um and I just glaze it in there this isn't a huge change or shift color-wise it's actually pretty similar color-wise but because it's regular paint it's going to be quite matte now the thinness of the glaze will means some of the shine still comes through so I do about two applications of the glaze to get it all in place so as you rotate around even though it will remain the same color it will actually reduce the shine and appear to be a darker Shadow we're going to reinforce that with the next steps so my next step is I take some uh Pro acry brown gray um this is a wonderful color from the signature series from Matt sewi and Ben comts and I mix it about 50/50 with that warm Brown and I repeat the glazing step this time covering a little less so maybe 50 60% of what I covered the first time so now we'll transition from the intense bronze that's very reflective into sort of the same color but weakly reflective into a true darker color that's not reflective at all so we get that nice transition just through the glazes again about two applications of that glaze over these small areas and we're good to go there's a couple other little bronze Pieces by the way on this that I'm working on incidentally as I'm doing this big tank uh next up uh with my Shadows placed and those are they're nice and dark it's time to get some highlights in place so I mix in just another drop of silver into my previous bronze mix uh basically I take like the silver mix it about 50/50 with the previous bronze mix and then I apply that as a thin highlights so I do thin this down with some water and I create a nice light line down the column of the thing I hit all of the edges I hit the raised F on top and so on and so forth basically applying some nice simple highlights in the opposite places that I put the Shadows um so all in all uh relatively uh easy and quick process I do use kind of a stippling method here and kind of a lot of scritchy scratchy applications with the brush to make sure that I get it spread out and move that pigment all the way around and create a nice simple fade if you have if you if when you do it there's a bit too hard of a line between the silver and the um bronze just take some of the regular tallos bronze itself thin it down one to one with just some water and then kind of do a quick glaze over the edge of the silver boom jobs are good and you'll be back into sort of a smoother transition very easy um okay now uh the uh next step is to begin applying the weathering we've got the uh sort of the base progression of the bronze down if you want really clean bronze stop here if you're just looking for you know if you're doing some bronze on your own troops and you want it to be nice and shiny and fresh you're done congratulations well done you you did a great job but if you want it like me the scaven well they don't take great care of their stuff then it's time to actually weather it up so we're going to talk about how I apply verree and no it's not just the thing in nlic oxide although that will play a bit of a role as you saw from the paints earlier um I'm going to start by mixing a sort of 50/50 mix of verree and that uh that dark brown gray now you might think to yourself what why okay two things one we're going to use this very thin down so I mix it and then I thin it way down and then I start applying it almost like a very targeted wash into recesses and cracks and crevices it will be very weak and it will create a little bit of darkness in there while also creating a little bit of that green tone the mix of that dark brown that is my shadow color with the verree that I want to hide in the recesses creates this sort of nice magical mix and I thin it way down it will look a lot stronger when you initially put it on than when you actually uh when it actually dries so do take note this will fade and get weaker as it dries as many paints often do and so I'm hitting things like under the rim where water could collect anytime there's like two joints together anywhere where water would naturally gather collect and then cause enhanced oxidation that's where I'm focusing this little targeted wash I am not not washing the whole thing I am doing it as you can see in very specific places now once that's done I then start doing some cool streaks so I'm going to start taking that same mix and where you know on things like the tank where it's this big uh sort of column like shape I just start pulling down streaks little thin streaks some are small some are long and I just lay them over top of each other and do a lot of streaks repeatedly it really does sell this effect it's crazy how much better this looks after the streaks go on than before I can't explain why it's so real to us and why it's so credible to the human eye but trust me if you've got any kind of long flat surf surf where you can work streaks in to your weathering do it that's true for all types of weathering but it especially works great here uh and just provides for a really cool look next up I go to just sort of pure verree and what I'm going to do there is reinforce some of those areas where I want more fresh oxidation so here I focus on things like deep recesses or edges where that would naturally be more exposed more easily chipped and damaged more easily uh than susceptible to weathering I also thin it down some and then reinforce some of those streaks not all so I do less here but sometimes I'll trace a streak sometimes I'll make a new one make a new little one Whatever to show that there's layers of that streaking that have happened on the tank where it's constantly sort of you know boiled out some kind of uh acidic awful warp liquid and then kind of ran out uh but I build up those streaks accordingly and just kind of get those in place with that bright verree now the next step is where we actually go to the NAC oxide and here I use it very sparingly and very thin I start with a moist brush and you can see I just kind of tap it in around in some places where I want it really thin to reinforce some stronger weathering so again in things like recesses or in like cha cracks or chips or stuff like that and then yet again I do a couple of streaks with this as well this is actually going to end up being the most bright and intense when it dries over these other colors so I want to make sure I use this quite sparingly and just to really give that final pop and intensity to the verree on the actual uh on the copper okay with that all in place we're basically done but if you looked at the paint I showed at the beginning you'll notice that I had a little bit of sarap from sepia in there what is this for so this is an interesting thing you can do once you have all your weathering and place you can come back in with the seraphim sepia and around the edges of your Verte gree or at certain points in the middle of it and so on like you just take some of that sarap from sepia with like a slightly damp brush and you just kind of stipple it in um into the actual verree in some places like as little dots on the edges of some of the verree to soften the transition between where the oxidation is and where the copper is anywhere where you want to reinforce or smooth out some of the Shadows you can do this so if you have some rough trans transitions into your shadows from the earlier glazes give a nice sweep over that whole area the seram sepia will mat that area down reduce some of the shine but it'll also act as a little bit of like yellowing and Browning to some of the verree to show where there's little dots of maybe copper that have been scratched through or like the Verte has been scratched away verree is very thin it actually wears off quite easily so having a few little dots of like this subtle hint of that yellow brown shining through or being there can add a lot to enrich the overall impression of the Verte it's a completely optional step but it's one I think is pretty cool as it can help smooth the transition between the verree smooth your earlier steps and add credibility to your to your actual verree streaks and areas all at the same time with one simple easy application of a shade color so with that we're all done uh I painted up the rest of them as obviously this was all one of the first steps I did very unusually for the metals um but here's how he looks I think he came out pretty cool uh one down many more of jaal to go but uh I'm pretty happy with how he came out uh if you liked this give it a like uh subscribe if you haven't already we've got new videos here every Saturday if you've got questions about uh copper or bronze or applying weathering and verree to them that I didn't cover in this video do just drop those down below uh I always answer every question asked and I love hearing from all of you if you want to support the channel and uh keep more lessons like this coming or more tutorials like this coming uh Hey lots of ways you can do so you can do the aforementioned liking and subscribing and sharing all of that's free but uh if you want to support the channel monetarily there are affiliate links down there they don't cost you anything extra in fact they often save you money and they give a nice Kickback to the Channel please hit those up for buying all your hobby supplies there's also the games down there that Uncle Adam and I make um so you can find your newest Skirmish Obsession and of course there's our patreon focused on and feedback and taking your next step on your hobby Journey as always though I thank you so much for watching this one and we'll see you next time