this video is brought to you by square space welcome back to how to paint a demon princess today we're going to be painting a demon princess of slanesh and we're going to be doing our very best to paint her in a lore compliant way which means lots of Pinks and purples as well as the color of the freshly spilled blood of mortal kind as well as probably some tips on non-metallic metals and sck purple to Pink gradients that hopefully you can make use of on your new Emperor's Children armies step one the variant zenial well recently I have been more of a fan of painting over a simple black undercoat for larger models like this I truly believe that some sort of zenial or spray is the more efficient way to go as it can help produce smoother results over larger flat areas but I didn't want to go with the basic zenial spray for this model I wanted something new something exciting so after the basic black Prime instead of using a gray midtone i instead decided to use two very different colors to block in warm and cool highlights on the model I started by spraying some bold py Roll Red from the bottom right hand side of the model to give our princess some warm underlighting and then repeated this step on the back of the model as well once again spraying From Below low and to the right side I Then followed this up by spraying in the exact opposite direction from the models top and to the left with this transparent blue green paint to give us a darker cooler lighting as you can see I'm using contrasting colors here warm orangish red and cool bluish green to give us contrasting shadows and underlighting and as you can see even though I'm spraying all of this now from above with some white paint I think the undertones still show through and are going to influence the final product step two dry brushing now as you might have already guessed the next step is going to be using transparent glazes to do a cool gradients but before we do that on larger models like this I often like to do some preemptive highlights to save time later so using a white dry brush I just went through and picked out a few areas on the model that I wanted to look a little bit more crisp a little bit more highlighted and you can spend as little or as much time as you want on this step I just find it helps to do even just a little bit to save time on doing highlights later as our following steps after this are going to help conceal some of the chalkiness of the dry brushing by doing some glazing on top of it now I don't usually do this but at this point I took some metallic colors and decided to do do the same thing adding metallic highlights to areas that I knew I wanted to look gold or silver eventually I'm not sure if this is going to show through later on but at the very least it can't hurt and it only took a few minutes step three fluorescent glazing with our highlights and shadows blocked in it is now time to do our sick gradients and for this I thought I would run another experiment and use almost entirely fluorescent colors I started with fluorescent From Below along the same trajectories that we already sent our red spray earlier and I followed this up with some fluorescent purple which I used to block in some of the armor plates that I know I want to be purple eventually as well as the wing support bony things at this point I realized I had maybe gone a little bit too far with these fluorescent colors as I then decided to add some basic highlights back in mostly to areas like the wings and the skin that I wanted to look quite pale and for this I used a mixture of white in this beautiful light lavender color with this complete I added a final pop of red using a fluorescent red this time to just the underside of the model and with this complete it is now time to start adding the the rest of the details on by hand step four targeted glaze shading following up on our previous steps I thought one of the main things missing from the model at this point was more targeted shading in the crevices to help break up the different sections so mixing up a wash using 50% purple swarm and 50% speed paint medium I went in and added deeper shading to any parts of the model where I wanted these deeper Shadows however I didn't want a traditional contrast or speed paint type finish here so what I ended up doing mostly here was Dripping the wash onto the crevices cleaning off my brush with water and then going in with that damp brush to help feather out the excess speed paints notably you're going to want to use the speed paint medium when you're doing this otherwise it will dry too fast but the speed paint medium slows down the drying time of the speed paint to the point where you can feather it out like this to keep things interesting I then made a similar wash using a red speed paint and speed paint medium and started adding some red sections to the shadows as well sometimes blending it in with these purple shadows and I could probably spend hours alone on this process refining the Shadows but after doing this for a while I wanted a little bit of a break so I skipped ahead to the next step step five fail miserably at non-metallic metals and here you can see I I made a little bit of a mistake instead of doing some tests first on a small part of the model like I would usually do I charged in headlong and tested out a new cool gold metallic workflow directly on the model I was trying to ape this beautiful painting of our Lord and Master fulgram with this paint job so my goal was to get these cool greenish gold non-metallic Metals with the indigo and a little bit of red Shadows mixed in however this really just didn't work out nearly as well as I thought it would and I just ended up trying again and again but getting more and more frustrated with this process as I went until eventually I just gave up for the night and worked on another part of the model step six take a break and work on the easy parts of the model when I inevitably get frustrated with a model such as trying to implement a new experimental non-metallic Metals workflow instead of giving up entirely and burning the model as a sacrifice to our demon overlords i instead like to take a step back reenter my brain and just work on some of the easier parts of the model that will need to be done eventually anyways and that's exactly what I did here as I took a lighter lavender color and added some highlights into the skin I'm of the mindset that you should never walk away from the painting desk angry as I find it makes it even harder to come back to do more painting again later so instead when this sort of thing happens to me I like to set a timer for 15 minutes 30 minutes and work on another part of the model until I cool down a little bit get a little bit less frustrated before walking away from the painting table for the night I feel like this is a really good productivity tip for any task as I remember reading somewhere at some point that your brain Associates the end point of an activity with the entire activity so you want to make the end point as pleasant as possible to reinforce the idea of wanting to go back and do more of it step seven sleep and dream that night after allowing myself to sleep and dream I woke up with the perfect non-metallic metal recipe revealed to me this method not only used fewer colors than the method I used before but it was also faster easier and more efficient much like this video sponsor square space Squarespace is the all-in-one website and hosting platform for all of your website needs and it's extremely easy to use just pick from one of their fabulously designed pre-made templates or use their brand new design intelligence system to build a completely personalized custom template from scratch I've been using my current Squarespace website to host a gallery of my painted Miniatures all of my painting reference documents as well as an online store which has been extremely easy to use keep updated and allows for a number of flexible payment options so if you need a website why not check out squarespace.com today for a free trial and when you're ready to launch go to squarespace.com danah how for 10% off your very first purchase of a website or domain and now back to our video step eight revised and simplified non-metallic Metals so my new workflow for these green gold non-metallic Metals is extremely simple it goes like this first base coat the area that you want to have this non-metallic metal look in some sort of off-white or ochre yellow color once this is dry give it a coat of our 50/50 mixture of purple swarm speed paint and speed paint medium this is going to PR provide the deepest layer of Shadows for our metallics but also thanks to the speed paint medium the paint drying is slowed down quite a lot making it very easy to smoothly blend into our next color which is this sort of camo green or ochre yellow color it's it's right between those two colors and we're going to blend this into our purple wash again working with the slow drying nature of this purple wash to get a sort of wet blending technique going on here if you mess up at this stage or you find the paint just dries too quickly and doesn't allow you to wet blend it's really easy to redo things and you can always add in some glazed medium drying retarder or speed paint medium to the camo green or any purple wash if you're finding that the paints you're working with are drying too fast next add some pale sand into the camo green for our first layer of highlights and then once that's done Edge highlight with a pure pale sand or ivory color for the final highlight as to where you should be putting these specific highlights to make it look non-metallic metal on the more textured metal areas honestly this is just a more exaggerated form of highlighting like you regularly would where the highlights are brighter than they would usually be and the Shadows are a bit darker but if you aren't quite sure the general rule that I like to follow is the brightest highlights are the ones that are most parallel with the sky and the darkest highlights are not the ones that are most parallel with the ground but instead the ones that are most vertical or perpendicular to the ground this can get a little bit trickier with curved areas and my best advice for this is just to use as much reference photo as you can of real um shiny gold or or metallic surfaces or just experiment with highlights and shadows until it looks right to your eye this is really one of those things that takes a little bit of experience to get an eye for it finally we can then glaze some red towards the bottom right of the non-metallic metals this helps go along with this speculative Lighting in our color scheme but I also feel that this helps to make the metallics look more gold for some reason maybe it's just because it adds that warm element to the metallics and if you want the gold to look even more yellow and less greenish you can of course glaze on small amounts of ochre yellow into spots as well and that's pretty much the entire process and as it is extremely tedious to do this many non-metallic metals on such a large model I found that I often just took breaks to work on other parts of the model rather than trying to do all the Met non metallic metals at once and the main thing I found myself taking breaks to work on were the large areas of skin step nine large areas of skin and for pretty much all the skin on this model I used the same workflow mainly I would use our purple washes we created before to add in those Shadows I which we described at a previous step blending them outwards with a wet brush when necessary and then for the highlights I used a few colors really whatever matched the base tone of the gradient but I found that these two colors um Violet coven and Barbarian flesh were especially useful when mixed together in various amounts to give a nice fleshy color for areas like the top of the head the top of the muscles on the back or even on the wings and on the wings I found I was able to get a lot of highlighting done by using the side of my brush to do some Edge highlighting there's so much to edge highlight on this model I found it makes a great break from doing whatever else you're doing on the model there's lots to Edge highlights and towards the very top of the higher Wing the wings are different heights so on the very top of the highest Wing I mixed in just a little bit of this light turquoise color to get an even cooler Edge highlight as I just felt like adding a light turquoise was the natural extension of our gradient from red to purple to Blue at this point I also had some fun glazing on some areas of bright red as a sort of Shadow color on various parts of the model that I felt would be strongly affected by red light from below and in areas where that opaque red was would have been too strong I used the red wash add a little bit of that speculative lighting step 10 the blade and the Hooves as the rest of this model was progressing fairly nicely I finally turned my attention to one of the areas of the model that I had definitely been ignoring this demon princess's massive sword now I considered doing some more non-metallic Metals here that seemed like an obvious way to go but I was honestly a little bit burned out from doing so many non- metallic metal gold Parts on the model and I was also thinking that I might want to make the runes on the sword glow at a later point so maybe putting a lot of work into non-metallic metals on the sword wasn't the way to go so in order to help facilitate this I decided to paint the blade pure obsidian black instead of a silver color to help those glowing runes stand out more now there are a few ways you could do this you could start by just painting The Sword black but I instead decided to base coat it with this very very dark turquoise speed paint from the new John blanch set mixed with just a few drops of speed paint medium to help it flow my thinking here is that we're going to get a hint of turquoise to the blade by doing this instead of pure black but also because the color is transparent we're also going to see hints of whatever colors are below it so we'll get some of those Reds and purples showing through and as this was drying I liked the look of it so much that I DEC decided to add little bits of this color to other parts of the model to help add that very dark shadow contrast to all the other really bright colors some of the areas I added this was the cabling attaching the parts of the armor the Hooves which I felt looked really nice as well as a lot of these spiked Talon things near the feet the tip of the tail as well as a ton of various chains and piercings on the wings I even decided to Rim the base with this color because why not something I feel is often overlooked by a lot of people when it comes to speed paint or contrast paint is that it's not only good for its transparency or its ability to run in recesses but also it's a great way to just get a very smooth coat with no brush Strokes as it's sort of a self-leveling paint so it works great for things like base rims once the sword had fully dried I thinned down some titanium white paint and let it seep into the crevices of the runes on the sword as well as a few other choice Parts on the model where I wanted this contrasting glow effect such as the chaos symbol on the arm a few other of these various Vents and parts of the wires as well as a part of the base that I wanted to look somewhat vol canic then after quickly tiing up a few of these areas with basic black paint I gave all of these areas a targeted spray with a transparent yellow color through my airbrush to give them the impression that they are glowing once this was done I gave most of these areas an overspray once again with our fluorescent red colored paint the idea here being to give it a sort of fiery look with pure yellow in the middle and red emanating out around it I think this effect was pretty successful but it still needed a little bit of refinement so I went into a few of these areas with a pure black dry brush to help push the contrast even further I found this was especially helpful on the base itself to give things a little bit more of a volcanic look you can think of this as a sort of reverse highlight where we're going for pure white and yellow in the deepest recesses red and purple as the midtones and pure black where the highest highlights would usually be I went over this black dry brush in a few places with a red dry brush to help blend things together a little bit better but made sure to leave a few blackened edges in place to give things a little bit of a crispy barbecued look and while I did like the way this effect looked on the base of the model wasn't really sure if I liked it as much on the sword to me this was giving a little bit less of a slanesh demon princess Vibe and a little bit more of a corn or chaos undivided sort of feel so I tried a few things to help bring that slanesh Vibe back in starting with some purple blending and Edge highlighting around the sword arm and the sword itself I also added this even lighter lavender color to help push those highlights even further but eventually I realized this technique wasn't really working I needed to push things further into the realm of slanesh by maybe adding some kind of accent color to help this model feel more Emperor's Children aligned and after a little bit of brainstorming I came up with this pastel seafoam for those of you not aware there are a few Paints in the speed paint 2.0 line that I helped design that have more more of a white base tone to them you can tell which ones they are cuz they're either called howling something or pastel something pastel seafoam is one of these and as you can see when you drip it into the recesses of things it can give a pretty unique look and when you soak the entire Blade with it it can give sort of a verree look I applied this to both the blade as well as to a few other places on the model to give a contrasting cyan tone like we see on some of the Emperor's Children and I think it really helps the whole model feel more slanesh aligned to have this Milky cyan contrasting tone to finish up the blade I added a purple midtone a light lavender Edge highlight as well as a small amount of our purple swarm wash followed up by just a tiny amount of our turquoise black wash to give the blade a slightly non-metallic metal purple look nice as a final experiment I thought it might be interesting to coat just a few areas of the model in a gloss varnish to help them look either wet and fleshy or just very shiny and after testing it out on the flesh gun arm I discovered that adding pure gloss varnish was maybe a little bit too much it looks more toy like than wet or shiny so after a little bit of experimenting I made a mixture of 50% water and 50% gloss varnish and this I felt was the perfect amount of glossiness that I wanted so I added this to a few parts on the model where I wanted that glossiness and that's about it that completes our demon princess for today I hope you enjoyed going on this model painting Journey with me and if any of you would like to purchase this demon princess she is available for sale over at H corp.com slore if you'd like more tips on how to paint non-metallic Metals you can always check out this video or if you'd like to see me paint another Emperor's Children Affiliated model you can check out this video with that said thank you so much for watching thank you to all of our patrons for their ongoing support and I will see you in the next video