hi everyone you're joining me in the studio today
and I've also brought with me Adam hello if you don't know Adam's got quite a famous Deathwatch
Army you've painted loads of death watch for the past few years yeah yeah I've painted quite a
few thank you so much yeah he loves to paint Deathwatch uh and they are absolutely amazing
you really push the boat out on all your models you spend how long on each miniature a long time
yeah probably more time than I spend on an entire squad so I like to paint kind of you know not
that many highlights a bit of weathering which is completely different to you so you can see
here I've got an Iron Hands model I've painted I'm really happy with him I really love him but
very different to how you paint yeah he's awesome though I love it he's very much in the environment
I love it well thank you very much but I really want to learn how you paint your models okay yeah
cool and obviously specifically how you paint your Deathwatch models so today I've brought you on
yeah to teach me how you do that awesome black armour oh I can't wait to get started let's do
I think we should crack into it yeah let's do it right so the first stage is with we're going
to get the Abbadon Black and we're going to use that as a base code to go over our undercode of
course yeah so what I find is When painting black you want to make sure that the whole area is the
same kind of finish and obviously the undercoat has a slightly different finish to Abbadon Black
which is our base paint so by doing this we just kind of almost give ourselves a nice a nice
little protective save to go to it's already so different to what I would do. That little
tiny difference in colour doesn't really bother me so I would just completely ignore this stage
and go right to the next one so already really interesting all right cool man um so what we'll
do what if you noticed me I've actually made sure that this base layer is is quite thin because
what I want to do is just I want to make sure I don't add any unwanted texturing to it so is this
thin enough yeah that looks good that looks good so so what you can see is I'm just getting this
all over the model quite quickly so just moving the paint around making sure I'm not painting the
same area repeatedly because that will add texture to it later on see yes now that's like the last
thing you want when you're spending this long on a miniature so as you can see I covered the entire
area so what I'll do now is I'll let the paint completely dry and then come back and do a second
layer because also if you're trying to paint over it while it's still wet that adds texture into it
as well so of course yes that's what we're looking to avoid so we've base coated uh what's next so
next thing we need to do is do the recess shade so for this we're going to use Doombull Brown
and we're going to add four dollops roughly four dollops of Lahmian Medium to it to make it into a
shade consistency and we're going to start recess shading with that awesome so going to get that on
the palette four yeah one two four dolls of Lahmian Medium to I've got four of the paint okay well a
few more okay yeah it's fine I'm just going to use my other brush to add loads of this yeah that's fine
so yeah so if you look at my palette there that's roughly the kind of consistency that you want just
just like that then what I'm going to do is just clean off the brush dry it off just cos I want
to control it so it's the paint is just on the point of my brush so just like that and then start
doing the recesses so what I like to start with is actually doing these recesses underneath the
kneecap okay it is arguably some of the hardest ones but what I found um is that I kind of get
to my eye in and get gets you in the mood it gets me in the mood quite quickly yeah yeah I like
it and I suppose suppose you're using a layer paint rather than a shade paint because it's a bit
brighter and punchier yeah well yeah you've you've nailed it there it's 100% so I'm using Doombull Brown for this um essentially for those reasons and because I've I found that it adds so much more
to the final finish once you get the highlights on yeah and also it's um it has a matte it's got a
more of a matte finish as well where the shades um sometimes can be like a little bit more shiny
which is absolutely awesome it's good for that but for me when I'm doing it I would kind of want the
finish to be quite consistent so that's why I'm using Doombull Brown. I also suppose like you paint single
miniatures at a time yeah and if you painting a whole squad a actual Shade paint is much more
you know appealing because you can just keep the same consistency all the time having to mix this
for over and over and over again might be a bit annoying yeah yeah 100% um and then also just a
nice tip here that might help you so when doing um recess shades like this I don't know if you can
see but I'm always making sure I'm moving the model around so I'm painting downwards towards
myself okay so this helps uh because you kind of let gravity do the work and it's much easier
to control the paint when doing it so I I tend to do that anyway like paint towards myself
where I can but are you like going out of your way to paint towards yourself yeah so like this
one here like it's sideways I would normally just do it like that but are you like bringing what
I'd do is I'd rotate the mini and actually you end up holding holding the handle in all these
weird funky kind of way but what I find is it just gives me so much more brush control it's a
bit easier yeah yeah I mean you don't really need to shade a a black miniature really do you like
no no like you don't at all because obvious black it does most of the work for you 100% but like
the reason why I do it is because I have found that giving a brown uh shade especially a punchy
brown like this like Doombull Brown is that when you get your highlights on it actually gives a
really cool kind of like vibrant finish to the entire miniature and it like it makes the highlights pop
out even more and it's just to me more visually pleasing yeah I I agree I even used the like a very similar scheme for my black armour or dark steel armour yeah, I think this
orangey look really complements the the actual colour itself and looks really nice yeah 100% 100%
I was expecting that recess shade to be quite tricky if I'm honest and I really surprised myself it was
actually quite easy obviously I have to do a lot more tidying up than Adam did but I really enjoyed
it and I'm happy to move on to the next stage and I see there's four paints coming up of these all
highlights or yeah yeah so the next things are going to be a highlight stage so the first one
we're going to use is Incubi Darkness and the reason why we're using this one is that basically
it's going to give us a nice break between Abbadon Black and the rest of the brighter highlights to
go so we're actually going to thin this one down a lot more than we will the other highlights okay
so I'm going to get that open and onto the palette so don't worry with us about it being too um thin
of an edge highlight cuz actually we kind of want this to be a little bit kind of subtle anyway yeah
subtle just a little bit wider than normal when you're doing a highlight okay so I'm just going to
thin that out out a bit more so you kind of want this kind of consistency here maybe just a little
bit more you can see what I'm doing here is using kind of like is it just like a really chunky edge highlight
yeah really chunky edge and just pulling it down so you can see that the paint actually isn't
very opaque as well at all so it's quite thin and translucent and it helps to give that really
nice kind of almost gradient from the black into the Incubi Darkness and sets us up nicely for the
the rest of the stages okay interesting so you want to well one of the more important aspects of
this is just to try and make sure that your line is consistent but like sizewise yeah sizewise
across all the edges so as you can see what I'm doing here is just maneuvering the model so I'm
again I'm always painting down towards myself okay and you're doing every edge yeah so this will this
will be every edge so highlighting isn't normally my thing but I actually think I did a really
good job here doesn't look too different from Adam's and even though there's what two three more
highlights coming up I'm actually quite excited going forward all right cool Ollie we've got our
first stage highlight complete how did you find it uh actually all right to be honest I mean it is
like a very dark color so I feel like it's quite forgiving like if I look here I can't actually
see anything yeah well that's perfect it's exactly what you want cuz then that's going to set us up
nicely for the next one so speaking of that our next highlight is going to be Thunderhawk Blue
okay and this is now when we're actually really going to start like proper edge highlighting here
so that that wasn't proper edge highlighting so we want we want this paint um to be slightly
more opaque so don't thin it down as much sure and again we're going to be making our way around
all of the armour panels and then just picking them out so we're looking to paint within the line of
our previous um stage you don't want to cover it no you don't want to cover it completely but again
also making sure that it's nice and consistent line in the same kind of thickness throughout
all of it so like the first one I'm probably going to start on the um the front panel the big
the massive bit front yeah I might do the same actually and get myself into it from there okay
so we're in the first line yeah but obviously it has to be big enough right cuz are we doing
another one within this later or yeah we will be actually so so it can't be super super small no
we don't want it super so that the next one after this will be a fine edge highlight so that's
when we'll start to go super small cool cool so how are you finding highlighting with edge
highlighting in general well it's you know it's something I can do from time to time um
I'm still struggling to imagine doing this over an entire Space Marine yeah you know it's quite easy
to see the the bigger picture which in this case is a leg but if I was doing a whole Marine or
a squad of Marines knowing there's three more highlights coming up is quite daunting but I'm
finding it okay actually so highlighting isn't normally my thing but I actually think I did a
really good job here doesn't look too different from Adam's and even though there's what two
three more highlights coming up I'm actually quite excited going forward so the next paint
we're doing is going to be Fenrisian Grey and with this one it's going to be a little bit different
so we want this paint to be a bit more opaque so we're going to have a little bit less water in
it when we're when we're thinning it down cuz this was going to help to make the highlight pop
up and also we're looking to only paint the upper three-quarters of the the panels okay so we're leaving the
bottom quarter essentially unpainted cos that's going to kind of show where the light doesn't hit
it so that's going to be what we're trying to do here this is like proper unfamiliar territory
for me like I very rarely go with more than two highlights on something okay cool right maybe
I'll do some more for like a face or something but you know like just the classic armour yeah very
rare I do that so this is this is cool um so with the one it becomes even more important now that
we want to make sure that we are painting within the previous line because you know we spent so
long getting these lines done we don't want to paint over them so what I would do or what I
try to do is I definitely I'm going to try and angle my piece so it's about roughly 45° when I'm
doing it and using the tip of the brush to paint down along the line so it's literally is edge highlighting letting the edge do the work staying in between the lines is really
tricky but the effects are starting to come together I mean almost instantly it looks really
cool it's absolutely wild that Adam does this on an entire Space Marine okay that's that stage done
how did you find it yeah good very good it was quite tricky I won't lie um I can see like why
you know it's necessary it really comes together it starts to bring the whole thing to life um
and actually makes it look like you put a lot of time into it which I think is really cool um
but yeah just the one paint left is it yeah just the one paint left to go yeah yeah almost there
so our last paint that we're going to use is Blue Horror and what we're going to use this
for is a spot highlight so what we want to do is put that where you ever find two edges meet
so just on the corners and you're going to use that just to make the whole thing just pop out
a little bit more so when doing this again you want it to be slightly more opaque so don't thin
it out as much you don't really want to thin out Blue Horror that much anyway cuz it's quite thin
already um and then what I do is try and use very little pressure and just the tip of the where
two lines me yeah just the tip of the brush so you're controlling the application so what I'll
do here is how much you actually want on a corner just like this so you can see haven't really got
that much on mine brush it all lot and then just very very lightly okay just on the corner and
that just makes the whole thing just pop out nicely hey do you want to put this on any of
like the other raised bits like the very top of this arch or are you just doing corn so
yeah I was going to talk to you about that so there are a couple of things you can do so
obviously we're using this as a dot highlight to pick out edges but you can if you wanted
to push it a bit more so whenever you have a curved surface like that so there's a couple of
ways you can approach doing a curved surface one of them we haven't done here is you do um you
do like a reflexive in the middle yeah but what you can do as well is find the point
so on this leg here I'd say the top bit there is probably where the light's hitting at the most
you find that point there and you can just instead of doing a dot you just kind of do like a really
really thin line okay and you just kind of bring that bring that bit into Focus as well with it
nice y That's so you can do that with some of the circles if you wanted to and I think we're finally
done unless there's like another mystery no no no more highlights to go you know we're done we're
done how did you find it oie you enjoy yeah really good you want to try yeah yeah let me see it yeah
really good I um really enjoyed it it's not how I would paint normally so it was cool to kind of
push the boat out challenge myself actually I would like to try painting more like this you know
in the in the future maybe not necessarily Deathwatch or whatever but just just try adding more
paints into my recipes what I'd say is for someone first time doing this many like edge highlights
cuz you're saying you don't normally do that it's really good man you can definitely see all
the lines happening I can see Incubi Darkness straight through to Fenrisian so that that's
what you want really that's that's great man so so good yeah may maybe one day I'll get a bit
more for night with the liines but um yeah really enjoying it really really proud of what I've done
and excited to do some more in the future great you think you might take the process into like
maybe doing um some of your heroes or your leader characters yeah definitely so I want to add more
more colors into my highlights now going forward and I think I'll start doing that on my characters
and my heroes you know it's always a good place to start cuz it's kind of it's not quite as kind
of all encompassing is doing it as your whole army yeah definitely so yeah I'll keep that in
mind going forward I'm really excited to add more paints into my life cool thank you
for watching everyone I hope you enjoyed too maybe you learned a few things as well
and we'll see you next time bye-bye bye
Products Used
Price

ProAcryl: Black Brown
All Monument paints are a premium high-density pigment in superior acrylic mediums. They provide great coverage right out of the bottle, thin evenly to achieve any level of transparency, and dry to a beautiful matte finish. Whether brush or airbrush, they are formulated to provide the same consistency in color and coverage. Pro Acryl paints come with an innovative, no-clog cap that provides the benefits of a dropper bottle and twist cap all in one! All paints come loaded with our signature glass agitators and are sealed for freshness!22ml of paint per bottle.
$4.75
All Monument paints are a premium high-density pigment in superior acrylic mediums. They provide great coverage right out of the bottle, thin evenly to achieve any level of transparency, and dry to a beautiful matte finish. Whether brush or airbrush, they are formulated to provide the same consistency in color and coverage. Pro Acryl paints come with an innovative, no-clog cap that provides the benefits of a dropper bottle and twist cap all in one! All paints come loaded with our signature glass agitators and are sealed for freshness!22ml of paint per bottle.

ProAcryl: Metallic Medium
All Monument paints are a premium high-density pigment in superior acrylic mediums. They provide great coverage right out of the bottle, thin evenly to achieve any level of transparency, and dry to a beautiful matte finish. Whether brush or airbrush, they are formulated to provide the same consistency in color and coverage. Pro Acryl paints come with an innovative, no-clog cap that provides the benefits of a dropper bottle and twist cap all in one! All paints come loaded with our signature glass agitators and are sealed for freshness!22ml of paint per bottle.
$4.75
All Monument paints are a premium high-density pigment in superior acrylic mediums. They provide great coverage right out of the bottle, thin evenly to achieve any level of transparency, and dry to a beautiful matte finish. Whether brush or airbrush, they are formulated to provide the same consistency in color and coverage. Pro Acryl paints come with an innovative, no-clog cap that provides the benefits of a dropper bottle and twist cap all in one! All paints come loaded with our signature glass agitators and are sealed for freshness!22ml of paint per bottle.

Citadel Base: Incubi Darkness
Specially formulated to provide a solid basecoat with a high pigment count Pot size: 12ml
$3.87
Specially formulated to provide a solid basecoat with a high pigment count Pot size: 12ml

Citadel Dry: Thunderhawk Blue
Designed especially for drybrushing Matt finish Water-based formula Pot size: 12ml
$4.10
Designed especially for drybrushing Matt finish Water-based formula Pot size: 12ml

Citadel Layer: Blue Horror
Formulated for crisp highlights and building up layers Smooth matt finish Water-based formula Pot size: 12ml
$3.87
Formulated for crisp highlights and building up layers Smooth matt finish Water-based formula Pot size: 12ml
Unavailable

Citadel Air: Abaddon Black Out of Stock
Formulated to work with your airbrush Clear finish Water-based formula Pot size: 24ml
$7.02
Formulated to work with your airbrush Clear finish Water-based formula Pot size: 24ml

Scale75: Eclipse Grey Out of Stock
Scale75: Eclipse GreyACRYLIC PAINT 17ML
$4.04
Scale75: Eclipse GreyACRYLIC PAINT 17ML
Subtotal: $32.40