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hello folks and welcome to another in the series of Warhammer underworlds painting tutorials this week I am painting up grandfather's gardeners and I am revisiting a technique that I absolutely adore doing I haven't done it in a few years now I'm really excited to get to mess around with it again and to get to show you guys uh how I do this technique [Music] we've already done a standard kind of layer simple opaque paint uh technique we've used a kind of myON Slap Chop with zenial followed by uh contrast paints this time I'm really pulling out all the stops and I am going to use uh the airbrush so don't be scared uh Don't Run Away uh this is going going to be fine um I really want to demonstrate that you can use the airbrush to get some pretty cool effects even on Infantry figures it doesn't take a lot of practice to get this done you want a little bit of trigger control if you want to see more basic stuff on how to airbrush check out some of my past videos like this one but uh for this particular video I'm going to be talking more about placement and technique rather than the uh specific kind of mechanics of airbrushing let's dive into it now uh it is pretty cold pretty wet pretty miserable in California right now uh I didn't want to go outside and rattlecan Prime these so I thought I would do that with the airbrush as well so I use styal res black primer uh it is kind of ready to go out of the pot there's no thinning required it's not as strong an adhesion of a primer as rattle can would be but um in pinch it does great so quickly primed all of The Grandfather's gardeners figures up with a uh black Prime we're going to now airbrush on our zenial lay now I am going to be using a lot of translucent Paints in this uh in particular some contrast paints but applied through the airbrush which uh has a slightly different effect but because of this the zenial is actually really quite important it's no longer just a map like it was for us when we were doing uh solid opaque paints it's not quite the same as when we were using contrast paints with a brush um and I'm taking a little bit more care and attention to this I generally want these models to be a little bit desaturated I don't want super bright poppy colors on these they're kind of nurly and gross and disgusting and Browns and tertiary color Hues so uh my first step is getting a zenithal of gray I used stun or as gray primer for this this is a kind of General all over zenial I'm just moving it around the model applying it from the top down rolling the airbrush down a little bit to get a decent amount of coverage uh and getting a good gray Prime over that black once we've done that we're going to then really build up a stronger Zenith with in particular areas particularly the face the head uh the hands as well potentially uh depending on the sculpt and to do this I am going to use my favorite white to run through an airbrush which is liquitex Inc titanium white it is it need doesn't need thinning it doesn't clog your airbrush uh it sprays out super fine really nicely the only thing is make sure you really really shake it before you put it into to your airbrush that's true for all paints but especially anything that's got titanium white in it it's a heavy body pigment it does tend to settle out quite quickly and if you don't shake it up then you're going to have a few issues now with squat there are those big wings and I don't actually want to preserve the zenial on those so with the titanium white ink I'm going to go in and I'm going to be a little heavy-handed uh just to get a nice even white coverage this is going to set me up nicely to do that kind of rainbowy Prismatic uh look to the wings that I'm going to do later on I'm also going to zenithal the bases now it's a little trickier to zeny Bases because if you just do it from top down like you would with the model uh you tend to lose all of the detail in the definition so I tend to roll the airbrush down and spray slightly up again from the direction of the main source of light so that I've still got some of those darker areas and it is not just fully blown out brightness um I also kind of roll the base around a little bit so that we don't have any areas that are just super dark either with the primer and the zenial completed it's time to lay down an initial base coat and I am using contrast paints plague barer flesh cuz after all these are plague bearers so we're going to go with that we're running it through our airbrush no need to thin or anything like that I'm really quite lazy when I airbrush I want to be thinning paints as little as possible you know if there are air paints available from a particular line I will often choose to use those especially if they're color match to the regular paints so I can bounce back and forth and not have to worry about things like thinning in this case though contrast paints shoot through an airbrush just fine without thinning I'm using a light trigger motion so that I don't completely uh blow out the model when I'm spraying this but I just want to get a nice even coat over all of those flesh areas I'm trying not to hit areas that are not going to be flesh colored like staffs or loin cloths things like that but if there's a little bit of Splash over it's not the end of the world these are going to be quite organic looking models there's going to be some bleed over um and we we're not scared of that so uh you know anything that we want to preserve hard Ed separate objects things like that we can go over with opaque paints at the end and and we'll get to that in a bit last thing to do I really do want to reinforce those focal areas so I take just a airbrush ready ivory color I have this one is from uh valo model Airline and I'm just going to pick out and brighten up some of those key areas hands face Etc uh just to uh give us bit more of that pop a get bit more lift to uh once again draw the eye to those parts of the model when people are looking at it hey folks uh please just take a quick minute here like the video if you're enjoying it so far please do subscribe if you're not already uh it will let you know when I do more videos and it really helps me reach a growing audience and don't forget to hit the notification Bell if you're feeling extra throw a comment in that tell me what you're working on at the moment I love hearing what people people painting so let me know and uh if you have any suggestions on the video if you want any particular tips for future videos but those in the comments too it will determine what I do next so let me know all right back to the video so we've kind of got our base coat set up and now it's time to add some visual interest to that flesh these models are mostly flashh and we could leave it here they'd look just fine on a tabletop they've got you know some kind of shading and highlights but we want to give more visual interest and for this I use a collection of colors and this is where for me the airbrush really is clutch we could have painted on that plague Bearer flesh with uh a brush would have given a slightly different effect but it would have looked much the same we could have done even our zenithal just with a dry brush you've seen me do that before uh but this time around I uh want to give some visual interest in a way that you can do with a brush but it takes a very long time with an airbrush however you're going to see it is a super quick process so what we're going to do is take some of the old Citadel Shades if you don't have these you can thin contrast paints or Army painter speed paints it'll work just fine again I'm lazy I don't want to have to thin paints so I use the shades because they are very pigment light very translucent and so we're going to get quite a subtle effect when we airbrush these out and that is intended brush starting off with ducci Violet this is to give us some bruis looking tones really kind of purpley unpleasant um colors I'm also going to use this to color the liquid coming out of flegma Pot Belly's uh pot belly um to give a nice purple Hue to that with the purples applied I'm going to now use a little bit of athonian camo shade this is a green quite similar to the plague Bears flesh contrast paint we use so it's not going to have a huge effect but just kind of uh enriching a few areas here and there with that done I'm going to move on to carberg Crimson another color that is really good for bruises for maybe like more um raw or um injured skin uh I also used this for the prosis of squat and for the tongue of fma's pot belly a little bit of Agra Earth shade just to give some kind of older bruising Brown Hues and then finally drakenhof Knight shade which I use a little bit to kind of apply another type of bruise color but also just to punch up the Shadows here and there where maybe I feel they've been a little bit lost with the earlier stages that blue color really kind of darkens the plague bear of Flesh and gives a good shadowy color to it that is US done for the airbrushing it's time now to crack out the brush give a little bit more definition I didn't film all of this this is largely the same as my previous tutorials but there are a couple of sections here I kind of wanted to highlight that I did capture on camera um and I think the most interesting is probably the Prismatic effect on the wings now for this I took uh doomfire magenta um athematic blue uh kandas green and I forgot to get a photo of this but also uh luxion uh Violet those colors are going to be used Straight Out of the pot onto a wet surface so that we get nice bleeding we do not need much paint on this we don't want highly saturated colors for a prismatic effect like this we're thinking pastel colors we're thinking quite translucent we've got a nice strong white base down so we just apply those kind of moving through the rainbow starting with the purple magenta the athematic blue and then finally the candas green to give ourselves a nice kind of Prismatic rainbow effect and wet blend it all together if you are unhappy with the result if you went too strong or something if you're working quickly and I had all of the paints open at the same time and just rinsing my brush and dipping them out between uh if if it really doesn't work for you you can just uh wash the whole thing off just get a lot of water slop it on take it off let it dry out and then start over we have left the weapons up until this point fairly flat black and I wanted to paint them up to look really rusty nly narly tarnished and to do this I'm really not using much metal at all I'm going to start with a warm Brown I'm just applying that with a stippling motion over almost all of the blade little bits of black here and there will be absolutely fine once we've got that down we're then going to step up the intensity of the color and brightness with some orange stipple that in a lot less this time just little bits here there uh we do want it to show through we do want those tonal variations but we don't need to go heavy-handed with this once that's dry we're then going to just kind of across between dry brush and Edge highlight with a silver paint in this case I used uh speed metal from scale color as you saw me use in my other video uh this is a really uh strong shiny silver so so it looks like fresh edges on a uh blade that's otherwise tarnished where it's just kind of had the rust scraped away and the shiny bare metal is is right underneath now for the bases you'll see that I had started with a uh magenta on the land and a really rich blue uh for the oceans that was a quick airbrush job I didn't capture it on camera unfortunately but simply kind of airbrushing straight down slightly translucent paints preserving some of those zls that we applied earlier it's very saturated you can see here how it's kind of distracting from the figure much more than we'd really like so what we're going to do is knock that back uh by applying more realistic uh floor colors to it we're going to use some Grays some Browns just applying these paints top down carefully so that we're not erasing all of the magenta but the magenta is kept in the recesses in the shadows this is going to give uh some kind of unnatural feel to the bases it's going to look kind of distorted chosy exactly the kind of effect that we want with a good solid dark brown uh dark color in place we're just going to lightly dry brush up with a gray uh just to give us you know really otherwise normal looking Stone but with just that little bit of unearthly purple magenta showing through last step uh this is a bit of a cheat it's something I'd probably only use on uh gaming pieces but if you want something to look shiny and especially with squatz wings we do want that the easiest thing to do is just to take a little bit of gloss varnish and just apply it on the areas that we want so for this I did some of the uh seler areas liquidy areas I did the eyes of the models I did the water on the bases as well um just a super quick effect now if you're really wanting to be careful with your gaming figures uh and you normally apply maybe a matte or a satin varnish to the models before um playing with them you should probably do that before this stage um and give yourself the opportunity to get that um shininess to show through without having a matte varnish over the top mute it at all grandfather's gardeners this war band views the depths of Ard as fertile ground in which to cultivate The Garden of nurgle and sew their diseased seeds while embracing the cycle of rot ruin and rebirth as a Mastery War band flegma Potbelly has one uncomplicated duty to spread his master's maggots and maladies across the Mortal Realms he is aided by the plague Bearer slung maggoty strug and bugy drip turus plus the overgrown rot fly squat welcoming the inevitable decay of all things these Fighters Inspire when vulnerable all right folks well that is that is my uh video I hope you enjoyed it if you did please uh do consider writing a comment liking the video subscribe if you haven't already hit the notification Bell I love making these videos for you I love the feedback and I would love to do more and reach a bigger audience and I need your help to do that so uh please do take a few seconds if you can uh otherwise I am going to be back in a few weeks with another video I am still cooking up what I'm going to do I might switch tax a little bit and go into my process my thought process for doing a diarama for a competition entry so if that's of interest to you uh let me know maybe I'll make it happen uh otherwise I will be back with some more shorts soon I'm sure for [Music]

You won't believe these airbrush techniques!

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Products Used

Price

Citadel Contrast: Luxion Purple

Contrast is a revolutionary paint that makes beautiful painting simple and fast. Each Contrast paint, when applied over a light Contrast undercoat, gives you a vivid base and realistic shading all in a single application.

$6.63

Contrast is a revolutionary paint that makes beautiful painting simple and fast. Each Contrast paint, when applied over a light Contrast undercoat, gives you a vivid base and realistic shading all in a single application.

Citadel Contrast: Karandras Green

Contrast is a revolutionary paint that makes beautiful painting simple and fast. Each Contrast paint, when applied over a light Contrast undercoat, gives you a vivid base and realistic shading all in a single application.

$6.63

Contrast is a revolutionary paint that makes beautiful painting simple and fast. Each Contrast paint, when applied over a light Contrast undercoat, gives you a vivid base and realistic shading all in a single application.

Citadel Contrast: Aethermatic Blue

Bases, shades, and highlights your models with a single application Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

$6.63

Bases, shades, and highlights your models with a single application Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

Citadel Contrast: Doomfire Magenta

Contrast is a revolutionary paint that makes beautiful painting simple and fast. Each Contrast paint, when applied over a light Contrast undercoat, gives you a vivid base and realistic shading all in a single application.

$6.63

Contrast is a revolutionary paint that makes beautiful painting simple and fast. Each Contrast paint, when applied over a light Contrast undercoat, gives you a vivid base and realistic shading all in a single application.

Citadel Shade: Drakenhof Nightshade Blue

Formulated to draw out details with natural-looking depth and shadow Glossy finish Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

$6.63

Formulated to draw out details with natural-looking depth and shadow Glossy finish Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

Citadel Shade: Agrax Earthshade

Formulated to draw out details with natural-looking depth and shadow Glossy finish Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

$7.02

Formulated to draw out details with natural-looking depth and shadow Glossy finish Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

Citadel Shade: Carroburg Crimson Red

Formulated to draw out details with natural-looking depth and shadow Glossy finish Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

$6.63

Formulated to draw out details with natural-looking depth and shadow Glossy finish Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

Citadel Shade: Athonian Camoshade

Formulated to draw out details with natural-looking depth and shadow Glossy finish Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

$7.02

Formulated to draw out details with natural-looking depth and shadow Glossy finish Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

Citadel Shade: Druchii Violet

Shade paints make adding realistic shadows and lowlights to your models easy. They are designed to run into the recesses of your miniatures, providing excellent results with minimal effort.

$6.63

Shade paints make adding realistic shadows and lowlights to your models easy. They are designed to run into the recesses of your miniatures, providing excellent results with minimal effort.

Citadel Contrast: Plaguebearer Flesh

Bases, shades, and highlights your models with a single application Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

$6.63

Bases, shades, and highlights your models with a single application Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

Vallejo: 17ml Bottle Ivory Model Color Out of Stock

Matt and opaque acrylic colors with highest pigment concentration in a water-based formula, especially developed for brush-on application. The Model Color range is very extensive and includes basic shades as well as many references developed by our experts for use on historical figures as well as the specific colors employed for all types of vehicles, planes and military models. The assortment includes a selection of glazes, transparent and fluorescent colors used for achieving special effects. It is recommended to apply the colors on a surface which has first been primed; the colors dry rapidly and form a self-leveling, homogenous paint film, equally perfect for large surfaces as for the most miniature details of the model. Model Color performs exceptionally well on all surfaces, with extraordinary adherence on resin, plastics, steel and white metal. Tools and brushes are cleaned with water.Safety: Model Color is not flammable, and does not contain solvents. Please see also certified safety information of the product on the Safety page.Packaging: Model color is presented in bottles of 17 ml./0.57 fl.oz. with eyedropper. This packaging prevents the paint from evaporating and drying in the container, so that It can be used in minimal quantities and preserved for a long time.

$3.00

Matt and opaque acrylic colors with highest pigment concentration in a water-based formula, especially developed for brush-on application. The Model Color range is very extensive and includes basic shades as well as many references developed by our experts for use on historical figures as well as the specific colors employed for all types of vehicles, planes and military models. The assortment includes a selection of glazes, transparent and fluorescent colors used for achieving special effects. It is recommended to apply the colors on a surface which has first been primed; the colors dry rapidly and form a self-leveling, homogenous paint film, equally perfect for large surfaces as for the most miniature details of the model. Model Color performs exceptionally well on all surfaces, with extraordinary adherence on resin, plastics, steel and white metal. Tools and brushes are cleaned with water.Safety: Model Color is not flammable, and does not contain solvents. Please see also certified safety information of the product on the Safety page.Packaging: Model color is presented in bottles of 17 ml./0.57 fl.oz. with eyedropper. This packaging prevents the paint from evaporating and drying in the container, so that It can be used in minimal quantities and preserved for a long time.

Badger: Stynylrez Water-Based Acrylic Primer Gray 4oz. Bottle Out of Stock

Badger: Stynylrez Water-Based Acrylic Primer Gray 4oz. Bottle

$9.68

Badger: Stynylrez Water-Based Acrylic Primer Gray 4oz. Bottle

Badger: Stynylrez Water-Based Acrylic Primer Black 4oz. Bottle Out of Stock

Badger: Stynylrez Water-Based Acrylic Primer Black 4oz. Bottle

$9.68

Badger: Stynylrez Water-Based Acrylic Primer Black 4oz. Bottle

Subtotal: $89.44

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