have you ever wanted to make your Miniatures look as good as the box art this video is for [Music] [Applause] [Music] you so in this video we are going to go through everything it takes to paint Ember watch using the Box arter guidance uh with very basic techniques and very basic process we I want to make it as easy as possible for you to get beautifully painted models onto the tabletop to game [Music] with so the first thing that we need to do is prime these models priming is something that we do to ensure that the paint adheres really well to the model first thing we have absolutely got to do here is shake the raffle C in order to to lay down the primer we're going to do smooth even passes back and forth with the Ravel can starting the spray off to one side making a nice light pass over the models and releasing and doing this several times the way that I do this is I will lay all of the models on a piece of cardboard flat on their fronts do passes from all four directions then flip them over and do the same thing again once we're done priming our models we're ready to start painting now there are a few things we're going to need here first one that I show here is optional it's a painting handle the reason for this is to reduce how much we're handling the models When We Touch our models uh we deposit some oils on them from our skin and that can interfere with paint adherence next up is a cup of paint water and then possibly most importantly is what uh is called a wet palette now I have just a little tray here with some folded up tissue paper I add enough water to completely soak the tissue um but not so much that there's a load of water slopping around in the bottom of this tray onto this I'm going to place a square of parchment paper in this case I got some precut ones for burger patties from the dollar store uh works really nicely you can use Reynolds parchment paper and C cut it up yourself if you want uh but this was pretty cheap and is really handy just for uh grabbing and and putting a fresh parchment paper on it now this is what we're going to put our paint on so the idea of this setup is acrylic paint dries quite quickly putting acrylic paint onto this um will allow for some of that moisture from the tissue paper underneath to come up through the parchment paper and keep the paint hydrated stop it from drying out so quickly it gives us more time to work with the paint next we are going to need a brush I use a size 4 rosemarine Co series 33 kolinsky Sable brush um but any brush that has a really good uh point to it you want the largest paintbrush you are comfortable with because that is going to give you the quickest coverage uh whilst retaining some Precision I also have a tile here that I use as a dry palette this is used for instances where we don't want very wet paint speaking of not wanting very wet paint let's talk about zenial zenithal is a means of highlighting a model very very quickly very very simply either by spraying a lighter color over a darker color or in this case dry brushing so in order to do this we want AC quite a dry paint I've got some gray which I'm going to start with and I'm going to use a dry brush you can use a makeup brush you just want a Broadhead soft brush for this you're going to add some gray uh into the brush and then wipe off almost all of the excess you can test on your hand uh if you've got enough uh paint on the brush or if you've got too much and then just in gentle downward Strokes all across the model we are going to apply that color we don't want to fully cover the model we're not looking to fill the recesses but we're looking to get good coverage once we've done this with the gray we're going to get some white I have a heavy bodied acrylic titanium white just from the art store that I use for this but any white will do and it's the exact same process a little more selective a little less paint in the brush uh so that we're really just picking out those brightest points quickly before we dive into the rest of this paint job uh if this is interesting to you if you are enjoying the content please consider liking the video subscribe uh hit that notification icon those things are super helpful for helping me grow as a channel and it is just a way for me to reach more people and continue sharing this hobby if you like it or you don't like it or you have something to contribute why not just put something in the comments and and let me know your thoughts I respond to every comment I see I really appreciate people who take the time to write something into the comments so that's another nice thing to do all right back to the painting now uh when painting traditionally uh the recommendation is to start with the most recessed areas and work to the most outward errors this will generally mean starting with the face and skin tones then hitting clothes then hitting any armor overclothes then hitting things like capes and accessories right at the end the reason for this is it's harder to reach those most recessed areas and so you're more likely to accidentally paint onto other areas only really one of these models has much in the way of a face but we're going to start with the face and hair here um it is the area that people will look at when they really you know examine your models and so you want it to look really good we are starting with quite a dark base coat here uh to give us a good solid coverage and to allow us to cheat a little bit in our Blends we're not going to have to spend quite so much time getting a nice smooth gradient between areas because this darker color is going to have given us our shadows already yes we are erasing the zenithal that we had applied right at the beginning but that's okay the zenial was there to give us a mental road map to tell us what areas are more pronounced what areas we should make brighter so we're just going to keep that in mind as we paint and we've got everything around it that's still showing at zenithal to give us some context here now I started with a Vallejo chocolate brown for this base coat matching the box out here we're going to go with a primarily Caucasian skin tone so this color is really going to just act as the shadow color from here we're going to take some Army painter Ruby skin and we're going to use that to cover over most areas of the face here we want to leave a few recessed areas in Shadow particularly under the eyes uh the creases below the nose um and under the chin creases in the ear as well but most of the model is going to get uh covered over with this Ruby skin tone it's going to take a couple coats to do this to get a nice smooth coverage there's no rush here as I said the face is the most important part of the model to make it look really stunning so let's take some time to really work at it with the Ruby skin down we're going to start moving up in brightness and for this we are going to use opal skin uh another Army painter paint uh these just happen to be the paints that I had to hand I'm not particularly attached to any one uh manufacturer of paints other paint lines will work just as well now for this brighter Sone we really want to focus in on those areas that are going to catch a lot of light that is going to be the tops of the cheekbones it's going to be the uh tip of the nose it is going to be the forehead and the lips and the chin those are the areas we really want to focus on with this once we've done that we want to paint up the eyes and here I'm using some of that opal skin mixed with some titanium white I want quite a thick paint here I don't want to run the risk of the paint bleeding out as I paint up you'll see that I had left the eye socket dark and that gives us framing for the eyeball so we're going to just paint this in very very carefully if we hit any issues at all if we paint it too fat or in the wrong place not a problem we just go back in with our chocolate brown or our Dark Shadow color block it out and go again you'll see I actually did redo the uh model's left eye uh because the first time I did it I wasn't happy with how the white was going with the white in place let it dry you really don't want to rush this step the next thing to do is to paint the iris the pupil um we're just going to use uh a little bit of the chocolate brown mixed with some uh black we don't want pure black for this it tends to look a little comic book and we want this to cover about 2/3 of the surface of the eye for the hair I didn't spend a lot of time on this I just did a quick base coat of black and then a few touched Edge highlights here with a gray the same gray that we used in the zenial stage next up we're painting the armor now I don't often paint true metallic metals I prefer a non- metallic metal look myself but in the spirit of matching the artwork of this piece we are going to do a little bit of true metallic paint work I use my dry palette for True metallic uh this helps keep the paint consistent it stops IT thinning too much and having low coverage um it also keeps it separate from my wet palette and prevents metallic flakes bleeding into my paints we start with scale color Elven gold we're going to paint this on in a couple of coats to get good coverage again we are going to be losing a lot of the Shadows that we had put in through the zenial prime but that's okay we're going to come back over this and Shadow it down and highlight it up so we will bring those that contrast back in for shading the color down I am using a thinned Gore grunter fur contrast paint from Citadel color this is a translucent paint I am using it a little bit like a wash but with more careful application I'm really only painting this into the shadowed areas and those areas are recesses under uh curved areas as well as any crevices that are carved or sculpted into the armor I have thinned this quite a lot with some water and I'm applying it very specifically I'm not just broadly painting it onto the model to highlight up the armor we want to use a really bright color uh and in this case I am using speed metal from scale color it is almost a metallic white it's very very bright and we're just using it very selectively on the most raised areas okay now on to the cape this is the biggest part of the model in a lot of ways it's a lot of uh surface area it's got big broad folds so it's going to take a little bit of care in painting this up I have started with a base coat of triumphant Navy from army painter uh which is a nice rich dark blue that I happen to have and I am adding a magic blue next to it on the brighter eras so this is definitely not needed this step uh you can kind of layer up as you would you know if you following a typical Games Workshop tutorial but I thought I would show you something a little different on a uh sculpt that really lends itself to it and that is wet blending so what I've done here is I've applied both paints on and whilst they're still wet I am using my brush just to gently blur the transition line between the two okay so paint one color quickly rinse your brush paint the other color and then rinse your brush again dry it with a moderately dry brush you're then going to just go back in and soften the edge between them by running the brush down it you have to be careful and you have to be quick but if it all goes wrong don't worry just paint over it again and if needed go back to layering for the inside of the cape I actually have to go through a few layers here I start with heavy skin tone which is a valo game color with extra opacity paint paint that over the black to give myself a fairly light brown over that I paint Tuscan tan a paint from uh huge Miniatures which I have this is brightening it further you'll notice that I don't actually paint this over the whole surface if the model uh the most recessed areas I leave as that heavy body skin tone um and then finally once I've got a good strong coat of tuskan tan which took a few layers I bring it up further with some titanium white so this is pure layering at at work here we're just building up those layers over time and getting nice smooth coverage at each stage no need for washes no need for speed paints just building this up as as carefully and as quickly as we can lastly these models have fur capes uh looking at the box art these are painted a kind of brown uh but with quite strong highlights for this I get that gor grunter fur that I used for shade shading my armor bring that back out thin it not as aggressively as I did for the aror uh but thinning it a little bit so that it will mostly sit in the recesses and only lightly color the fur itself and just simply paint a layer of it over the fur the fur has such pronounced texture that just doing this one layer will give us a high degree of contrast you can adjust your thickness depending on where on the model it is so you'll see on some of these figures that I have used a thinner uh mix of this paint on the more raised areas to give the impression of highlight well with the model itself mostly finished let's take a break and move to the base of the model we've already got a zenial prime over it and that's actually giving us really good color for the Rocks we want to get the ground cover in place however for this I'm just painting over with a AK interactive paint called dunal brown but really any kind of brown paint will work for this you'll see that I actually apply the paint straight onto the base of the model we've got a big surface it's going to take a lot of paint paint to cover it and the model has a lot of texture already pr- sculpted into the base which makes it a little more forgiving so I just add some paint and then carefully spread it out leaving the area directly under the model a little bit darker uh thinning the paint a bit and and uh ensuring that we've kind of got that cast Shadow from the model we then want to bring out the texture a little bit more so we use a dry brush uh this time of the same Tusk and tan that we Ed for the inside of the cloak and just gently dry brush that focusing mostly on the front of the model and of course you have to paint those Bas RS so a quick bit of Mars black heavy body acrylic paint just a couple laps slightly thinned around the outside of the base to give us that nice clean black look in addition to the gold armor these models have some silver areas to them uh the swords uh trim on the crossbows we are going to paint those also in true metallic metal and for this I am using scale color heavy metal as the first pass this is a very dark silver like a gunmetal kind of color uh this gives us a good base and then onto this I am going to add some speed metal in exactly the same way as I did for for the armor just to brighten up certain areas of it and help pick it out finally is what I like to call the bells and whistles this is the accessories it's the little bits of trim um and when I am painting these I will generally try and reuse paints that I have used on the rest of the model as much as possible occasionally I will want one of these things to kind of pop a little bit more and I'll use something different but buckles and rivets I paint with speed metal um any straps that I've not already painted are going to get uh gorgun fur contrast paint over them the strings for the crossbows are just going to be painted Tusk and town and with those colors painted up we are finished well this is my first painting tutorial on this channel in a little while if you enjoyed it please like the video please subscribe if if you've got any feedback at all please throw that in the comments below I will be back next week painting up ziet and his tunnel pack again I'm going to be looking to match the box art but the techniques I'm going to be using for those are very very different so do dial back in for that one and in the meantime thanks for watching and later days [Music]