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hey everybody in this video we're going to be showing you a great method of painting a deathu guard plague Marine for Warhammer 4000 by Gaines workshop and we're going to be painting this miniature in that really iconic classic death guard scheme that's that sort of muted green with lots of brass trim and of course loads of weathering effects now whilst we are going to be painting a regular plague Marine for our example the methods and techniques we're going to show you here can we apply to just about anything in the deathguard Army so I hope you enjoy it let's get started [Music] to paint the chaos Space Marines of the death guard the best under coat to go for for this particular color scheme is of course death guard green this is a spray from Citadel it's what I've gone for here but if you don't have access to this color then really any sort of neutral tone like this will be absolutely fine for example a gray or a khi whatever you're comfortable with really but what you need to do is start out by painting the miniature with a sort of olivey green of your choice now once again here I'm going to go for some death guard green and you might be wondering then then why paintless over the top of a spray that's the same color now this is because the spray paint version of a color and the painton pot version of a color is always going to be different especially when it comes to the Finish once they're dry and you will see this difference and once that might not seem important at first glance it is important later on if you make any mistakes and you have to clean up so it's just good practice even if you're using that spray color as a main part of your color scheme just to quickly paint the miniature entirely with the paint on version of that paint so that you don't see this difference so that's precisely what we're going to be doing here so I've got death guard green and to apply it all you'll need at this stage is a rough base coating brush so I have a medium base coat brush from Citadel here you need to get some of this paint onto your palette and thin it down with that little bit of water to make sure it's nice and smooth and with that prepared it's then just a matter of painting over the miniature with this color now because these two paints here are actually very similar in tone you can see there's not much of a difference here but it means this first coat is going to be really quick and easy to do if you have gone for a different undercoat color here you will need to just steadily build up the color just be sure to make sure you a nice even finish before you move on to the next step once that's done the model doesn't really look any different but that is an important step nonetheless and you certainly will see the difference if you put the two kinds of paint next to each other on the miniature but with that done what we can now do is move on to start to pick out various details on the miniature and the great thing about painting death guard is because they're all Mucky and gross a brown wash works well for just about every color on the miniature so what we're looking to do is apply as many base coats as possible that can share that brown white now we'll start out with the metallics and for this I'm going to go for some bronze first of all because there's quite a lot of it going to go for some Spartan bronze for this then we can move on to any silver metal and here I'm going to be using some cirat silver but we'll start out with Spartan bronze and for this what you'll need to do is just change brushes depending on what you're comfortable with based on the sort of size area that you're doing so it does change quite a lot from model to model in this case I'm using a size zero for mopus which is a good all-arounder size here but feel free to go for a smaller or larger if you want to go for a citadel brush I'd recommend a medium layer for this phase let's make sure you th that paint down with that little bit of water and also be careful not to overload your brush here so that you don't lose control of the paint because we're basically looking for any sort of decoration at this stage so that's going to be things such as the trim on the shoulders and you can see we got this one just here what you need to do is neatly move in and start blocking out that detail just being really careful of any armor that you want to keep green so you can see I'm just being really careful as I get to it right there if you do happen to make any mistakes it's not a problem just let the bronze dry and then go back to death guard green to clean it up but for this stage you're basically looking at all the trim including the trim on the body and the leg too there much more narrow down here but it's the same sort of thing these parts that go around the edges of the panels also keep an eye on any decorations such as the marker nle that we've got on the side of the Bolter just here once you found all those decorations to pick out in bronze you're then ready to move on to base coating some silver so here I'm using some cir coat silver this is generally going to be for all the mechanical details so various bits and pieces on the Bolter like this but also keep an eye out for any blades that case we've got these spikes on top so it's one on top of his helmet also he has a plague knife around here and be sure to keep an eye out for any chain mail on the miniature too such as all this that we've got hanging right here I finished base coating all those metallics now and here you can see the various details I picked out which when it comes to the smaller details on the miniature actually is the vast majority of it but there are still some other areas that we need to pick out with some other colors so we'll do that now and then we can put that brown wash across all of them at the same time so we're going to start out with the black features so it's going to be things like the Bulan casing that sort of thing here I'm using some death Reaper which is an off black which will get shaded down when we put that brown wash over it to give it a little bit of depth with that done we can then move on to base coating the fabric and here burgundy is a really nice contrast to the color scheme we've got so far so I'm going to use some sord Hil burgundy and then what we can do is base coat the nurglings now when it comes to nurglings there's a million different colors you can use but here I'm going to go for a pale green so I'm using aing camo as the base code here finally there's a whole load of details that are bone on there that we need to get to and so here I'm going to be using some Dragon Fang but we're going to be starting out with some death Reaper and we app this I'm going to be sticking to my size Zero Brush but again feel free to change as you need to depending on the details that you're doing as before just need to make sure the paint's thin down and ready on the pallet and then it's matter of looking for all the features that you want to be black and this is mostly going to be things such as the weapon casings so in the case of the Bolter we're looking at this feature around here as we block this color in just be careful those metallics that you've done so far as you base coat that area but also be sure to keep an eye out for joints in the armor and there are a few in this guy here they're a little bit hidden away you can see there's some of the joint just around here in the back of the body so we're looking for Fe like this that we can base coat at this stage as well here we have the miniature with that black applied and also I kept an eye out whilst I was doing it for little pipes as well such as these ones just up here once you're happy with all of that it's time to look for any Fabric and here we'll need a burgundy so I'm using some sword Hil burgundy on this miniature it's really just a loin cloth to do here but just bear in mind there is massive amount of variety between plague Marines so be sure to keep an eye out next up we're ready to base coat the nurglings and these can really be just about any color you want them to be but in this case I'm going for some aing camo and then finally it's time to move on to a dark bone color so here I'm using some Dragon Fang and this is going to be for all the bone details so really what we're looking at is skulls and horns and with that we've now finished applying all those base coats that can share that brown wash so it's time to paint on that brown wash and in this case you just need to pick out a dark one I'm going to be using some wood wash for that reason and to apply it you want a really large brush that can cover a lot of ground quickly so I'm going to be using a medium shade brush from Citadel now with this brush what you need to do is just load up a generous amount there and then just start painting it all across the miniature as you apply it just make sure to work into all the nooks and crannies as you go along so for example if I stting the leg just here you can see what I'm doing is really poking it into all the recesses making sure you really get all that shading in those details now whilst you're at it if you see any large amounts collecting on flat panels then just use your brush like a sponge to soak away the excess you won't get rid of all of it but the less that's on there the quicker following steps are going to be so what you're aiming for is about that sort of level of application before you move on now when you are putting this quantity of wash onto a miniature it's very easy to overdo it and if that happens it can start running and pooling in certain areas if it dries that way it doesn't come out looking too nice so for example if I get lots and put it onto the plague knife just here areas that stand out like that are great culprate for this sort of thing happening because the color tends to run down and starts collecting in a Big Blob there like that so you spot that happening what you do do is just touch your brush to it like a sponge just soak away the excess paint then redistribute it elsewhere around the miniature and once you have got it all over give it around about 45 minutes to dry the wash is now completely dry giving us all that shading there on the miniature but it has dulled things down quite a bit so now what we need to do is a little bit of layering just to clean things up now I know saying cleaning things up with the death guard miniature sounds a little bit strange but trust me this is important because we need the colors to be a bit brighter and a bit more bold before we do weathering over the top of them so we get a bit more contrast and help those Det stand out so to do this we'll return to death guard green first of all it's the original Green that we used and to apply it this time I'm going to be sticking with my size Zero Brush because the application here needs to be much more controlled than what we did when we originally just painted the model entirely with this color so on your palette make sure the paint's thin down as usual and under control and you won't need loads on your brush this time so just use tissue or the pette as necessary just to remove excess paint so you can bring those bristles to a nice point with that prepared then this time we're looking for that green armor and we need to reapply this color over the top looking to recesses as we go so if we look at this plate just here for example that means applying it onto the flat area just here but where we got this little chip in the armor just there it's going to carefully go around it leaving it darker with that shadow still showing with the wash still settled in there I'm also being careful as I get close to the trim you can see I'm not quite dropping into the corner right next to it and again this is just to retain that shading so it's basically just a matter of doing this across all of this green armor with that stage done you can see the armor now is clean and whilst we are going to make it a bit more grubby later on the important thing is that the color is standing out nicely now so with that done we can do the same sort of thing on three other areas and we'll start out with that burgundy fabric obviously quite a small detail in this particular pose but on some plague Marines there's quite a lot of it and for this we'll need to return to that original color so sort Hill burgundy is what I'm going to be using here with that done we should do the same sort of thing on the skin of the nurglings and again go back to the original color you used so in my case that's going to be aing camo and then for the bone we can go just a little bit lighter to create a bit of contrast with the shading that we've gotten there so far so here going to be using some skeleton Legion but what we'll do is start out with that burgundy so I'm going back to sword Hill burgundy here and I'm applying it with a size Zero Brush again and with the fabric the idea now is look to avoid the deeper creases that we've got on it so it's only a small bit to do just down here in the loin cloth you can see how we've got some folds that go into Shadows so the idea is to look for the parts that stand out such as this bit of fabric just here then when you get to recess Parts which is right in there just skip past it and Carry On Again on the other side [Music] next up we can return to the Flesh of the nurglings and here we need to layer them with the color that you originally used so in my case that's going to be some a green camo and it's a matter of looking for the parts of the muscles that really stand out and once again just be careful to avoid any recess detail and then finally it's time to move on to all the bone details and here I'm using some skeleton alion which is a little bit lighter than the base coat color I used here and that's just because I'm looking to really push up the contrast on these details so when you're looking at things like skulls it's a matter of just again being careful to to avoid any recesses and you see you get that nice strong distinction now between the lighter areas and the darker areas it's going to be things like the forehead around the eyes around the nose teeth that sort of thing when it comes to skulls now there will be horns and things too so we've got a big horn coming out the shoulder just here and when it comes to painting these apply the paint in lines going down the length of it so you can see I'm just following it down here like this and the idea is just to bring the color down to points as you get close towards the bottom so this way I'm not going all the way down to the base there and just bringing it down there like that and what this does is gives the impression of growth of that bone so just there like that one final thing to do with this C at this stage is to take a look at the nurglings and if they got any horns or teeth or anything like that now is a great time to pick those out too and with that done the layering phase is now complete of paint in the miniature so we can move on to highlighting it and honestly when it comes to highlighting this is entirely optional and you certainly don't have to do it and if you decide not to just skip ahead now to where we do all the little touches like the gross flesh for example cuz that part's really fun the eye lenses all that sort of thing but if you do really want the model to pop in the battlefield then highlighting will that so we're now going to go through all the colors to show you what to do and we'll start out with the main one which is that green armor in this case what you'll need now is a lighter tone than what we used which was death guard green so what I'm going to be doing here is using some aing camo once again and to apply it now go for your smallest brush I'm right down to a size double zero but if you want to use something from Games Workshop then going for a small layer brush be absolutely fine for this really just want a small brush that holds a good point and what you need to do is get the paint thinned correctly on the palette where it's flowing easily from your brush but not so much that's going out of control so just be careful not to over thin it it with water we're looking for a little bit of translucency there on the palette you can see we're starting to get and once you got that there just make sure you load up your brush fresh that there's not tons and tons of paint on there if you look closely there's not actually a great deal of paint in there but there is enough held in the body of the brush for what we need because once that's set up we can start looking now for all the edges and Corners that we get on the green armor we look at the back of the legs it's a great example along here now a lot of the armor does really stand out like this which means you can actually approach the side of the brush and skim along those edges and this way you can get a nice sharp highlight really quickly really easily on places like that when you're doing that sort of approach just make sure to keep changing the angle to make sure that you're comfortable which will sometimes result in turning the model in quite strange ways for example turning it right around to do the other side like this as I'm right-handed it means I've got easy access to that edge there like that but you won't always be able to do that because sometimes the edge just doesn't stand out enough in this case it's time to use the tip of the brush and what I like to do is angle the model so I'm painting the line downwards because this is a nice natural movement here of the hand this way you can get that sharp line really easily there like that it's using the tip of the brush just to follow that edge so now it's just a matter of going around all the green looking for all these edges like this just taking your time being as neat as possible and be sure to pick out any ribits as you encounter them too and these little bits of corroded armor be sure to go round these as well once you finished applying that highlight to the green you can see all the detail stands out nicely on it so now we're going to take it a little bit further and honestly this is another optional thing which is something I'd normally Reserve just for characters basically adding a second highlight to some precise areas to help them pop out a little a little bit more you can do this on your whole arm if you want to the choice really is yours but to do it what you'll need now is an even lighter shade of green so I'm actually going to mix a color for this going to use some auguring camo again but now I'm going to introduce a light bone color to it so I'm going to use some vampire fang to do this what we need to do is create that color on the palette first of all now I'm going to stick to my small brush for this so I'm using the size0 once again just going to make sure I've got a good amount of aing camo just there you can see I've got some vampire fang here it's going to bring the two of them together to mix up that lighter tone so it's basically going to be a very slight greenish bone color so that's what we're aiming for just there with that mixed up make sure you only have a small amount on your brush and with this we're going to Edge highlight again but now we're looking for the parts that are more prominent and really stand out so the face is a great example of this kind of thing where we're looking for the well the central part of it really so you can see the nose just here I'm going to do is just introduce a small amount of this lighter color over the top of the Highlight we did before just there and just a little bit on these sides here so it's basically any parts where you get this little intersection like a little t- shape there for the highlight it just helps that pop a little bit more moving further around the miniature it's going to be things like the tips of the feet so just down here you can see again we've got this little intersection of highlights just here which we can just push further with a little bit of that color there like that and also we can do it on Parts like the hands just around here again we get these highlights coming together so just want to focus on those parts and just add a little bit of this color to those areas and with that the green armor is now complete and we'll add some effect over the top of it later on but before we do any of that what we need to do is finish highlighting other colors on there and we'll do the metallics first of all starting out with all that bronze trim to highlight this you'll need a pair pale gold color so I'm going to go for some glistening gold and then for the silver you want a bright silver so here I'm going to use some metal blade we'll start out with glistening gold and to apply it I'm going to be using the small brush again so that size0 is what I'm going for here because just like with the green we want to keep lots of control over the paint and look for all those edges and Corners once again so on your palette just make sure that paint's thinned once more so while to bring down to about this sort of consistency see nice and smooth little bit translucent there remove the excess paint bringing the bristles to a nice point and then we can start looking for all that trim and all those edes now the great thing about these Miniatures is a lot of this trim really stands out so for a large amount of it you can actually just use the side of the brush and just skim along there like that and you can see it's very easy to access these parts and get those highlights just remember when you're doing this technique to make sure you turn the model so that you're comfortable in the application because this will help out with the accuracy which again does sometimes mean turning at quite strange angles but you see by doing this is nice and easy to get to these areas now that we've got all that brass highlighted we can do the same thing on the silver details so here I've got some mythal blade and to apply this go for the exact same technique on all these silver parts so for example on the magazine down here using the side of the brush to skim along but also bear in mind that when you're doing the silver there'll probably be some chain mail to highlight too when it comes to the chain mail a good thing to do is just remove excess paint and I'll often just do that on the back of my thumb there like that because this way you just lightly brush downwards in the links and it just picks out that raised detail really easily once you finish that stage all the metallic details will be highlighted and I always like going through that phase of painting plague Marines because now those details pop out so nicely but we do have a few more highlights that we got yet to apply and for this we'll need four paints we'll start out by highlighting the skin of the nurglings and here all you'll need is a lighter shade than what you used in the color so far on their skin so in our case Greek Cary be really good for that with that done we can then highlight all the black features in the miniature and here I'm going with some rodent gray so a slightly sort of earthy gray here so really into the kind of corrupted feel of the death guard with that done we can then har the burgundy fabric with a pink here I'm going to use some glistening gums and then finally it's time to finish off the bone here you'll want a light bone color so I'm going to use some vampire fang what we'll do is start out by highlighting the skin of the nurglings so here I'm going to be using Creed khi and I'm using the size Zero Brush once again just need a small amount of this really nice bright green here because with it we're just looking to pick out all the raised features up here on their skin so with the paint thinned and ready we can start looking for them and if we take a look at this little nurgling that we got down here looking for any features that really stand out so it's going to be things such as the curve of the muscle on the arm just around there little fingers going down here then we've got his chest just here we can go around the pectoral so it's all these parts are really stand out just follow along with a little bit of this color the next thing to do is highlight any black features on the miniature and here I'm going to be using some rodent gray so this is a slightly brownish gray which will lean nicely into the character of the death guard and with it we're looking for the edges and these black details so on the Bolter casing you can see I'm just using the side of the brush again but also we do have the joints and ridges in the armor now these can be a little bit tricky to get to such as the one that's hidden just just around there but to get these all you need to do is just touch the brush a little bit to them just to bring out some of that texture so just very lightly skim along just to pick out some areas there like that and here we have that black detail highlighted so it's time to move on to the burgundy Fabric and here we need a pink so I'm going to use some glistening gums and we're looking for the peaks of the fabric like this crease just here with the tip of the brush just pick that area out and then finally we can finish off the bone details and here you'll need a light bone color so I'm using some vampire fang and when it comes to things like horns and teeth apply this in the same way that we did with the layer earlier on again following those lines down towards the bottom there like that but when it comes to skulls in this case we need to pick out those parts that really stand out so that means going around things like the eye sockets just there picking out the teeth just down here and just these little ridges that we've got going up to the forehead and just a fine harder to cross the forehead as [Music] well and with that we've now finished painting the vast majority of the miniature so it's time to have fun by picking out some of the gross nurly details and what we'll do is start out by looking for any sort of Flesh bits so here's going to be tentacles tubes that sort of thing what we need here is to start out with a pale skin color so I'm going to use some Elven skin with that done it's then time to pick out all the puss inside the pus jewels and here you want a deep yellow so in this case I'm going for some darks and yellow but first of all we need to look for all the flesh parts so I'm going to use some Elven skin and to apply it I'm actually going to stick to my small brush because on this miniature these parts do tend to be quite small but there's a massive amount of variety from different plague Marines here just change as you need to for all of them though make sure your paint's thin down and ready as usual and then it's time to start looking for them and blocking them in and it's going to be things like little tentacles and we've got one just emerging out the belly down here so you can see this one just here want to neatly block this in at this stage but also keep an eye out for tubes and things too there are some on the side of his leg just here so I'm going to pick these out at this stage as well once you found all those flesh details we're then ready to pick out all the pules and here you need a dark yellow so I'm using some darks and yellow and on this model they all appear on the nurglings basically just these little bumps such as these around here now that we've got those details picked out we can do the really fun bit which is to put some contrast paint over the top to really stain them with some color and to do this we're going to be using three paints at the same time what I've got is some gullam and flesh also some magos purple and some contrast medium now contrast medium is the outlier amongst all of them because this one basically doesn't have any color to it but what it's going to allow us to do is d the other two without changing their properties and allow them to mix and get some really interesting tones as well so what we need to do is get this set up on the palette first of all now I'm using my size zero brush for this and I'll start out with some of the medium which is obviously clear so it's a bit tricky to see it here but what you want is just a good little puddle of it there on your palette to draw from the reason why we're using the palette here is so that whilst we're using the color we don't go into the medium because if you do this what you can do is contaminate it with some color so it is important to keep it separate now we can put the colors next to it on the palette so we'll grab some Megos purple so there we go good little puddle there of that that and we can do the exact same thing with gollem and flesh so a little puddle just there like that so the plan is to put all three on at the same time and do this what I'll do is start out with some of the medium just here I'm just going to load some of this up and apply it to some of these fleshy Parts just to get things going so if we take a look at these little tubes we've got down here just going to apply a small amount on there like that and then whilst it's still wet just going to grab one of the colors so this is Megos purple just going to put it on there and allow it to mix into that medium and just push it around there like that and you can see what we get is some nice tones on there that give the impression of almost bruising going on now once you've applied a certain amount just switch over to the other color you don't need to wash your brush for this this is Gem and flesh just going to apply this as well and again just poke it around and allow it to mix with the paints that we've got on there and this way you get a really nice effect of those colors just merging together there like that so now it's just a matter of doing this on all the fleshy Parts but also we can do it over the pules too and in this case I'm going to start out with gamman flesh again just to apply a little bit over the top of them there like that just to get some shading and then whilst it's still wet just jump to one of the other colors in this case I'm actually going to go for the medium so you get some of that and just apply over the top and just use it just to poke around again so that the color Fades out onto that surrounding flesh and here we have the result of the contrast paint now dry you can see it gives those really nice gross colors and all those flesh Parts there and the pules as well and so with that done we can now highlight these features and what we'll do is start out by highlighting all the flesh here we need a very pale flesh color so I'm going to use some flade one flesh now once that's done it's then time to Har the pules and here we want a pale bone color so I'm going back to some vampire fang for this but we'll start out with flade one flesh and to apply this one I've gone down to my size0 brush again and all we need to do is look for any ridges or any parts that stand out on these details and basically just follow along those areas with this color you won't need very much of it and it's a good idea to thin it down just to make sure it's a little bit translucent so you want to bring it down to about this point just here and it's time to start looking for these features and if we go to these tubes that we've got on the side of the leg just down here you can see we've got all various little bumps and ridges and stuff like that what you want to do is go around the outside of these ridges so here is such as just there to highlight that feature and whenever there's any bumps or any parts that catch the Light just be sure to go along those as well and once you're happy with that it's then time to highlight the pules so here you'll need a pale bone color so I'm using vampire fang which are thin down just like with the flade one flesh and with this it's just a matter of painting towards the top middle of each of these postures just to give the impression of that little white [Music] head and there we have it with that all those postures are complete as is all that gross flesh and so now we can move on to the next of these smaller details and this is going to be the ey lenses now like a lot of details on death guard there's all kinds of shapes and sizes here but all of them can still work by following the same general method which is to start with a deeper red and work our way towards yellow so that in mind what we're going to do is start out with a base coat of as modius red and then move on to some Demon red so nice bright red here then we can use some orange flare to really take it further and then we'll finish off with a bright yellow here I'm going to use some yellow flame but we're going to start out with as modius red and to apply this one you definitely want to go for the smallest brush you have so in this case I'm using my size0 once again what you need to do is just get some of this thinned and ready on your palette just really making sure you have that good point on your brush and then when you're ready to apply it to the miniature let's really brace your hands to be as steady as possible and gently move in and start applying the color along the length of the ey lenss like this now you can see we've got a bit of shading in there from earlier on and what we want to do is take advantage of that allowing that darker color still to show in the recesses either side of that lens so just there like that and it's just a matter of Bring It round onto the other one as well [Music] when you're happy with that it's then time to move on to a bright red so here I'm using some Demon red and this time with this particular lens we're looking to focus it on each side of the eyes so it's going to be a matter of painting a line now a little bit further in so we're leaving that darker red showing around the outside then I'm just going to skip across the middle and leave it dark right in the center and do the same thing on the other side there to give the impression of it being two eyes there like that now in addition if you want to you can also use this color to pick out the eyes on the nurglings and of course they are very very small but if you decide to do so just make sure you got that good point on your brush keep your hands as steady as possible and just carefully go in just to dot them with this color next you'll need a bright orange so here I'm going for some orange flare and on the ey lenses it's basically the same sort of process only making the line a little bit more narrow this time so just focusing it towards the center of the eye just a bit tighter there like that now if you also decide to paint the eyes of the nurglings you can use this on them too and in this case it's an even smaller dot just in the middle of each one [Music] and then finally it's time to move on to a bright yellow so in this case I'm using some yellow flame and again it's the same sort of thing on these eyers but just an even more focused line this time just in the very middle of each area that we've been highlighting and there we go those eyes are complete and at this stage the plague Marine is very nearly finished and to be perfectly honest you could just do the base now and the model's going to look amazing on the tabletop but when it comes to death guard a really cool thing to do is some weathering so we're going to do that now by just adding a few effects just to get more of that corroded feel and to do this we'll start out with some verree and some Rust now I'll start with the verree and here I'm going for two colors going to begin with some cursed blue followed up by some rayun glow and then for the rust I'm going to use some dry rust brown but we'll start out with those blues for the verdig grease I'm going to be starting out with cursed blue and this is a turquoise color that we've got here you can see I've just got a little puddle of it there on the palette and I'm using my size0 brush to do this because we just want to thin this right down with water and we're just going to add very small amounts of this into recesses on various bits of bronze detail so what you need to really add lots of water to make it very runny there like that very very Inky just load up a small amount on your brush and then start looking for areas on the brass where you'd get moisture collecting so for example on these studs that we've got here on the shoulder plate what we can do is go for these parts and it's just a matter of just dotting this color into those recessed areas there like that and just letting it just flow into those corners and here you can see then we get that nice effect of verree once you're happy with that it's then time to move on to a bright turquoise toys so here I'm using some rayan glow which I thinned down the exact same way as the previous color and what I'm going to do is just dot it into some of the areas where we've done that verree already but just smaller quantities this time just to give a little flash of a brighter color just deeper in these areas now that we finished doing that effect we can add some Rust and we can apply this in the exact same way the color I'm using is dry rust Brown which are going to thinned right down with water and using the small brush what I'm going to do is start introducing this into recess Parts on the armor so you see these little pitted bits that we've got just going to run it into areas like that just to get that nice Rusty appearance in those parts you can also add it onto chain mail too and onto flat metal as well so on the chain links we've got here so we can just start running it into some of these recesses to give that nice Rusty appearance the same thing on the flat side the blade works really nicely as [Music] well and now we've got those effects applied you're at a stage where you could base your miniature and at this point it'll look great on the tabletop but if you want to you can now experiment with something really fun and that is to add some Paints the Miniatures which if you've never done before I definitely recommend you give a go because it's great for weathering effects so for nurgle it's absolutely fantastic now the advantage of an enamel paint over an acrylic paint is that it takes quite a long time to completely dry and this means during that window you can actually reactivate it with some thinners and by doing this you can get some really interesting sort of almost faded effects in the miniature that look really realistic so doing things like rust becomes really simple and really easy and the great thing about a model like this is that you don't need many ANL paints to try it out as well so as I say if you not tried it before here you go it's definitely worth having a try with it now what you'll need to do is pick out a good sort of Rusty paint for the effect we're going to be doing here so I've got one from AK interactive this is rust streaks great color for this sort of thing and the plan is to apply this onto the miniature and then let it dry then reactivate it with some thinners now when it comes to the thinners a tip I have here is to actually get hold of two and try and make them from different manufacturers as well you see I've got two just here I've got some from hum roll and I got some white Spirit which do the same sort of thing from AK interactive now the reason why I've got two is because I use want to wash my brushes so you can see this one here it's all murky inside there this is great for the brush that you use in this phase here just wash your brush in that it'll be nice and clean however that can also have an effect on the miniature itself so I like to keep the clean one because this is the one we can actually paint onto the miniature itself and this way it's not going to do anything that we don't want to happen to the color so that's why it's a good idea to have both and the reason why I recommend you get them from different manufacturers is because this way it's very hard to get them mixed up by accident what we need to do is start out by applying the enamel paint so we just got to get some of this ready to apply it I find it's a good idea to have a selection of brushes that you keep just for your enamal paints and I've got one such brush just here this is a small layer brush from Citadel and with this what I'm going to do is just get some of this paint onto the palette so just like you're doing with an acrylic paint really just get some of it on there don't need to thin it down or anything like that but it's a good idea to have a little puddle on the palette to draw from because this way you can gauge exactly how much is on your brush so what you need to do is load up some of this just making sure you get a fairly good point there on the brush and then start having a think about the miniature as to where you get rust collecting on it so if we take a look at this leg just here with the armor on there what we can do is start running into some of the recesses around here just dotting it in there like that we can also add a few streaks going down as well so just kind of run them down there like that you can imagine like water dripping down there and just leaving a trail just things like that coming from various little pitted bits on the armor there like that and then just allow it to [Music] dry when you're happy with that it's time to move on to some of the thinners so here I'm using the clean white Spirit from AK interactive and with this just got a small amount here on the brush what you do is just start painting it very close by to the enamel paint and what will happen is it'll fade into it and reactivate it so you see it starts to go a little bit fuzzy and by then playing around with it it starts moving again and this way you can just start easing it into the surroundings and start to get those really nice realistic looking streaky effects there on the armor and really it's just a matter of playing around with it until you're happy just gradually working away at it just building up those effects there like that now with this done it's then time to base your miniature and as ever it's entirely your choice what basing scheme you go for but in this case I'm going to be going for an urban Rubble place [Music] and with that base now fully painted this death guard plague Marine is complete and ready to spread disease and Decay across the [Music] Imperial so when it comes to painting this particular color scheme of the death guard a number one thing that I really recommend you do is get a hold of an undercoat of death guard green now this is because the painton version of death guard green is actually quite a weak paint and if you're going over a different undercoat color it can take quite a bit of time to really build it up but if the miniature has already sprayed that color that initial step becomes a real quick want to do now after that the trickiest part about painting them is just neatly base coating all that trim but once that's done painting the rest of them is a breeze and it gets really fun towards the end especially when you're doing all the gross details so have F painting your plague Marines and we'll see you again very soon

How to paint your Death Guard Plague Marines for Warhammer 40,000 | Killteam | Duncan Rhodes

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Citadel Contrast: Magos Purple

Bases, shades, and highlights your models with a single application Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

$6.63

Bases, shades, and highlights your models with a single application Water-based formula Pot size: 18ml

Citadel Technical: Contrast Medium

$6.63

Scale75: Marduk Yellow

SFG-08ACRYLIC PAINT 17MLScale75: Marduk Yellow

$4.40

SFG-08ACRYLIC PAINT 17MLScale75: Marduk Yellow

Artis Opus: S Series - Brush Size 1

Hand crafted from the highest grade pure kolinsky sable.Sizes Available: 000, 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6Durable, pointed to perfection and full-bodied Series S are the highest quality workhorses!Note: Don't be afraid to try out our big brushes! Even our larger sizes, 2, 3 and 4 have fine points so still can be used for detail work. Benefits of a larger brush include less trips to the pallet, less tip-drying, and longer to work with that 'perfect mix' when you get dilution spot on, give one a go!

$19.49

Hand crafted from the highest grade pure kolinsky sable.Sizes Available: 000, 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6Durable, pointed to perfection and full-bodied Series S are the highest quality workhorses!Note: Don't be afraid to try out our big brushes! Even our larger sizes, 2, 3 and 4 have fine points so still can be used for detail work. Benefits of a larger brush include less trips to the pallet, less tip-drying, and longer to work with that 'perfect mix' when you get dilution spot on, give one a go!

Citadel Base: Bugman's Glow

Specially formulated to provide a solid basecoat with a high pigment count Pot size: 12ml

$3.87

Specially formulated to provide a solid basecoat with a high pigment count Pot size: 12ml

ProAcryl: Camo Green

All Monument paints are a premium high-density pigment in superior acrylic mediums. They provide great coverage right out of the bottle, thin evenly to achieve any level of transparency, and dry to a beautiful matte finish. Whether brush or airbrush, they are formulated to provide the same consistency in color and coverage. Pro Acryl paints come with an innovative, no-clog cap that provides the benefits of a dropper bottle and twist cap all in one! All paints come loaded with our signature glass agitators and are sealed for freshness!22ml of paint per bottle.

$4.75

All Monument paints are a premium high-density pigment in superior acrylic mediums. They provide great coverage right out of the bottle, thin evenly to achieve any level of transparency, and dry to a beautiful matte finish. Whether brush or airbrush, they are formulated to provide the same consistency in color and coverage. Pro Acryl paints come with an innovative, no-clog cap that provides the benefits of a dropper bottle and twist cap all in one! All paints come loaded with our signature glass agitators and are sealed for freshness!22ml of paint per bottle.

ProAcryl: Silver

All Monument paints are a premium high-density pigment in superior acrylic mediums. They provide great coverage right out of the bottle, thin evenly to achieve any level of transparency, and dry to a beautiful matte finish. Whether brush or airbrush, they are formulated to provide the same consistency in color and coverage. Pro Acryl paints come with an innovative, no-clog cap that provides the benefits of a dropper bottle and twist cap all in one! All paints come loaded with our signature glass agitators and are sealed for freshness!22ml of paint per bottle.

$4.75

All Monument paints are a premium high-density pigment in superior acrylic mediums. They provide great coverage right out of the bottle, thin evenly to achieve any level of transparency, and dry to a beautiful matte finish. Whether brush or airbrush, they are formulated to provide the same consistency in color and coverage. Pro Acryl paints come with an innovative, no-clog cap that provides the benefits of a dropper bottle and twist cap all in one! All paints come loaded with our signature glass agitators and are sealed for freshness!22ml of paint per bottle.

ProAcryl: Khaki

All Monument paints are a premium high-density pigment in superior acrylic mediums. They provide great coverage right out of the bottle, thin evenly to achieve any level of transparency, and dry to a beautiful matte finish. Whether brush or airbrush, they are formulated to provide the same consistency in color and coverage. Pro Acryl paints come with an innovative, no-clog cap that provides the benefits of a dropper bottle and twist cap all in one! All paints come loaded with our signature glass agitators and are sealed for freshness!22ml of paint per bottle.

$4.75

All Monument paints are a premium high-density pigment in superior acrylic mediums. They provide great coverage right out of the bottle, thin evenly to achieve any level of transparency, and dry to a beautiful matte finish. Whether brush or airbrush, they are formulated to provide the same consistency in color and coverage. Pro Acryl paints come with an innovative, no-clog cap that provides the benefits of a dropper bottle and twist cap all in one! All paints come loaded with our signature glass agitators and are sealed for freshness!22ml of paint per bottle.

AK Interactive: Rust Streaks Enamel Paint 35ml Bottle

AK Interactive: Rust Streaks Enamel Paint 35ml Bottle

$5.75

AK Interactive: Rust Streaks Enamel Paint 35ml Bottle

AK Interactive: Odorless White Spirit 100ml Bottle

AK Interactive: Odorless Enamel Thinner 100ml Bottle

$9.35

AK Interactive: Odorless Enamel Thinner 100ml Bottle

Citadel Brushes: Base Brush - Medium Out of Stock

This medium brush (M Base), ideal for basecoating features a flat shape with a curved top, entirely synthetic bristles for extended durability and two differing styles - side on for coverage, and a flat edge for detail.

$8.08

This medium brush (M Base), ideal for basecoating features a flat shape with a curved top, entirely synthetic bristles for extended durability and two differing styles - side on for coverage, and a flat edge for detail.

Citadel Air: Ironbreaker Out of Stock

Formulated to work with your airbrush Clear finish Water-based formula Pot size: 24ml

$7.02

Formulated to work with your airbrush Clear finish Water-based formula Pot size: 24ml

Scale75: Basic Flesh Out of Stock

SC-20ACRYLIC PAINT 17ML

$4.04

SC-20ACRYLIC PAINT 17ML

Scale75: Petroleum Gray Out of Stock

SC-57ACRYLIC PAINT 17MLScale75: Petroleum Gray

$4.04

SC-57ACRYLIC PAINT 17MLScale75: Petroleum Gray

Citadel Base: Death Guard Green Out of Stock

Specially formulated to provide a solid basecoat with a high pigment count Pot size: 12ml

$3.87

Specially formulated to provide a solid basecoat with a high pigment count Pot size: 12ml

Citadel Dry: Ryza Rust Out of Stock

Designed especially for drybrushing Matt finish Water-based formula Pot size: 12ml

$3.87

Designed especially for drybrushing Matt finish Water-based formula Pot size: 12ml

Godhand: Bit Blade set - Flat Blade Out of Stock

Flat blade chisels can be equipped with pin vise! High-quality flat blade set for carving and sculpting. Precision width in 0.5mm increments and easy to carve straight lines. These precision tools work on variety of surfaces including wood, plastic, putty and even can be used for engraving stone for stamp. [Flat Blade] Dia of blade: 1.0mm,1.5mm,2.0mm 2.5mm,3.0mm Dia of body :3.0mm

$33.35

Flat blade chisels can be equipped with pin vise! High-quality flat blade set for carving and sculpting. Precision width in 0.5mm increments and easy to carve straight lines. These precision tools work on variety of surfaces including wood, plastic, putty and even can be used for engraving stone for stamp. [Flat Blade] Dia of blade: 1.0mm,1.5mm,2.0mm 2.5mm,3.0mm Dia of body :3.0mm

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Two Thin Coats: Death Reaper Out of Stock

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Subtotal: $178.74

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